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English Having worked as the Pastry Sous Chef at Fauchon and Le Diane, Fouquet’s gourmet restaurant, and having spent some time in Dubai and Casablanca, Chef NICOLAS BACHEYRE now heads the patisserie at Un Dimanche à Paris — a tearoom, restaurant, pastry laboratory and a workshop for cooking classes in the 6th arrondissement of the capital. He was voted the “Most Promising Pastry Chef 2016” at the Relais Desserts Excellence Awards.
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How important is cream in your pastry-making?
Nicolas Bacheyre :
I would say that I use cream in 70% of my cooking. We always require cream in pastry-making: It constitutes the base of pretty much everything. Not only can you whip or infuse it, there is just so much more you can do with it! This is precisely why choosing an excellent cream makes all the difference!
How do you process and use cream?
Nicolas Bacheyre :
The two ways in which I often use cream are making them into whipped ganache and crémeux. But there really is so much more you can do with it in pastry-making. I especially recommend it for glazing.
For me the best cream is dairy cream and nothing else!
What does cream remind you of?
Nicolas Bacheyre :
When I think of cream, I think of the countryside, the nature… It’s rather simple really…for me the best cream is dairy cream and nothing else!
What is your favourite cream cake? Which of your creations best highlights the role of cream?
Nicolas Bacheyre :
I think my favourite cream cake would be the Rum Baba. It’s a specific pastry similar to a brioche, which is dried and soaked in rum syrup, and covered with a light and velvety layer of vanilla cream. You get everything: sweetness, cream, and its distinctive texture. I think that the creation that I made for this book best highlights the role of cream.
Any advice on how to use/ handle cream for your peers?
Nicolas Bacheyre :
The first advice, and the one that is important to me, is being careful when selecting cream. Dairy cream is the way to go! Before anything else such as technique or recipe, what really matters is choosing good products if you want to make good pastries. Never compromise on quality!
