Cédric Grolet

I use cream in a very specific way and it depends on the sensations I want to develop from the range of tastes, because each pastry is different. Cream sometimes creates lightness, sometimes it provides structure to capture the taste, and sometimes it rounds out and give depth to the flavours. The cream is handled according to the product, and 80% of my cakes use it.

Sometimes I cook cream by letting it rise slightly or take it to its limit. I like to infuse it hot or cold depending on the end product. I test all these versions to bring out the best flavours. For example, the roasted cocoa nibs have a robust taste; whereas if it’s worked in cold you can produce a delicate kind of infusion, while keeping the very smoky side of the chocolate. Another example is with grilled almonds where I prefer to use a hot cream, which would certainly not be my preference with fresh almonds. Using all the qualities of the cream to their maximum limits is something that is very interesting. I also smoke cream sometimes by including it in the middle of a casserole which is surrounded by hay, sealing it in the stew. The cream absorbs the aromas due its fat content.

I use the cream in very different ways: as a light cream, whipped or in seasonal dishes. My pastries are often very strong in taste, have power taste explosions in the centre, and their taste lingers on the tongue due to the cream. For éclairs, we achieve the lightest pastries through whipped cream infused with cocoa nibs. Then, I reinforce the taste with a dark chocolate caramel in the centre of the éclair. I then top the éclair with small, crunchy gavottes and cocoa nips. This provides a contrast between the lightness and crunch in the mouth. A good selection of raw, thick creams do not require a lot of specific treatment. They are great just as they are. When included in desserts, their true flavour shines through. I use it a lot with fruit, especially with warm strawberries served with basil pesto and a whole grain biscuit.

I love it for its taste and the richness it brings. I am passionate about it for its diversity and style: I can model it to suit different infusions. I am absolutely mad about it because you need a touch of madness to remain reasonable. Cream has a place everywhere and you have to put in the right place.

The Saint Honoré, without question. It is very indulgent with classic cream. The cream is wonderful, a real treat!